Pilsen Restaurant – The Municipal House, Prague

Pilsen must be my favourite restaurant in Prague. It is also inside one of my favorite buildings in the city, the Municipal House.

The Municipal House

Completed in 1912 the Municipal House is bang in the centre of Prague on Namesti Republiky 5. It was designed by Osvald Polivka and Antonin Balsanek in the Art Nouveau style and it was from here that Czech independence  was declared in 1918. The Art Nouveau scheme continues inside with mural, metal and glass work by several important Czech designers including Alfons Mucha (yes him of the Laurent Perrier champagne labels)

Within the Municipal House is the Smetana Hall (named after Czech composer Bedrich Smetana) and a number of other rooms used for events and conferences, cafes and restaurants and an information centre. Top tip – in  city where public loos often charge, the information centre has a free to pee toilet.

While the ground floor French restaurant is rather expensive the vast cavern in the basement that is Pilsen, is in my opinion very reasonable

The vast cavern of Pilsen

Laid out as a European beer hall, the food is typical hearty Czech fare, stews and roast meat with the ubiquitous dumplings to soak up any gravy

Roast Duck with Red Cabbage

I started with a smoked sausage which tasted a bit like a chip shop saveloy. No disrespect meant to to the sausage at all, I rather like chip shop saveloys and this sausage was mostly meat. For the main course I had the roast duck with red cabbage and dumplings. It was fabulous but vast. Although maybe not quite as big as the pork knuckle that Nick had!

Nick hides behind his knuckle of pig

Of course for the the spirit music is a natural accompaniment to food.

Musical entertainment by Josef Jehlik and Alena Penzenstradlerova

and the house band are the duo Svejk, Josef Jehlik on accordion and Alena Penzenstradlerova on double bass, playing traditional Czech folk songs.

Band master Josef Jehlik takes the salute

So what’s the damage? Four people starters, mains, aperitif and beers about 2400 Czech Crowns, a ridiculous £85 UK for what we had.

Sadly during our visit the American Cocktail bar

Ameriky Bar, Municipal House

in the Municipal House’s basement was closed for refurbishment, which was a shame because it is rather gorgeous inside.

Ameriky Bar, Municipal House

As you can see from the photos from our 2009 visit, it could easily be the place where Poirot does the big reveal.

The Ameriky Bar

Not to mention the fact that they mix a really mean gimlet

Meanest Gimlet in town


3 thoughts on “Pilsen Restaurant – The Municipal House, Prague

    • Getting around Europe is relatively cheap and easy from the UK.For short trips we book flights online with easyJet (or for Paris or Brussels Eurostar) and hotels through either budget chains like Ibis or discounted websites like Octopus. We only take minimal hand baggage so we can buy lots of cheap booze on the return trip.
      Since our daughter went to University, my wife and I have made a conscious decision to see as much of the world as we can and Europe is in the UK’s back garden so to speak.
      There are no visa requirements for UK nationals to most of Europe (Russia was an exception) so immigration is just a case of showing your passport and you are through.

  1. Pingback: The Art Nouveau splendour of Prague’s Municipal House | On the Luce

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