The Twisting Rhodes into Lindos

As the braying of the local taxi service brought me back to consciousness on day two of our Rhodes adventure, I became aware of how cold I was. Having thrown off the covers in the heat of the night I hadn’t expected the frightening efficiency of the air conditioning we’d shelled out an extra €65 for.

Lindos Town Taxi at rest

Opening the patio door soon warmed up our apartment, it was already like an oven outside. I was very pleased with the Lindos View Apartments. Having spent many holidays in both Greece and Cyprus I expected to find at least a couple of things that either didn’t work or were broken awaiting a handyman sometime, eventually , maybe. However everything was pristine, the kitchenette even had enough crockery. And it did indeed have a magnificent view of Lindos and the Acropolis.

Still getting over the trauma of the previous day’s epic travelling ordeal we decided to spend the hottest part of the day by the pool and take the winding road down into the old town of Lindos in the afternoon. In daylight this was hazardous enough, dicing death with cabs, trucks and coaches, since the pedestrian sidewalk was delineated by faded yellow stripes that had been painted on the tarmac way back through the mists of time. In one or two places there were safety bollards, but by Wednesday some lunatic had driven something large and heavy over them to leave a mess of flattened metal in the road.

The architecture of the old town reflects the island’s chequered history of occupation. Byzantine, Genoese, Arab and Ottoman buildings cast their shadows over the narrow streets of shops, restaurants and bars in the medieval centre.  We found this delightful bar, The Captain’s House that was originally a house built for a Christian Genoese merchant captain (note the crucifix carved above the door) by a Moslem Arab architect, just one example of cultural merger on the island.

The Captain’s House, a medieval Christian merchant house built by a Moslem Arab architect

Entering the town the first thing you come upon is the donkey garage. Since Lindos is built into the side of a mountain the donkeys were the only way to move goods on the steep winding roads that lead from the medieval centre up through the typical Greek whitewashed residential buildings to the Fortress of the Knights Hospitaller that commands the summit. Today they mostly carry lazy tourists up to the fort or down to the beach.

View from the Rainbird Cafe

Having taken Shanks’ pony up through the town and down to the beach, on our return we were drawn to the sounds of Pink Floyd‘s Dark Side of the Moon emanating from the Rainbird Cafe. The vine shaded courtyard of the Rainbird, with its magnificent view over the bay, was just the place for a reviving Ouzo and lemonade (€4) before descending back into the town to hunt down something to eat.

Rainbird Cafe kitten

After much wandering about we decided on Maria’s Restaurant, drawn in by the fish tank set in the window. Having secured a table right by said window much amusement was derived by pretending to be underwater every time a curious child peered inside from the street. The food wasn’t bad either. I had Tzatziki (Greek yogurt with cucumber and garlic) followed by a delicious stiffado (beef stew with tomatoes and onions) . With wine and water our bill came to €86 which wasn’t too bad for four.

So bellys full it was time for a drink. The sounds of Dick Dale’s surf guitar drew us into the first bar, unfortunately it segued into Footloose so we left before ordering a drink. Next stop was Socrates where we were drawn in by Neal Young‘s Heart of Gold. The Stones’ Gimme Shelter drew us up to the roof terrace and cocktails (about €7 each) were consumed to the Doors, the Clash and Mr James Marshall Hendrix, before catching a cab (of the Mercedes rather than the donkey variety) back up to our hotel. It may have cost €4, but I think we were slightly safer inside a vehicle than outside as the madmen drivers sped up and down the road!

12 thoughts on “The Twisting Rhodes into Lindos

  1. I was one of those lazy tourists on a donkey years ago! We decided to climb up to the Acropolis at about midday on a completely clear sunny day, not the best move. Views from up there were beautiful though.

  2. many years ago i paid a visit to crete,,,opted to stay in a 2 bedroom villa on my own…just for the peace and quiet! i well remember the heat…like an oven by midday! and one other thing i cant forget….the bathroom etiquette shall we say….toilet paper is not flushed down the WC…no, you place the used tissues in a little plastic bucket…which a maid comes and empties every day…yuckeeeee! apparently, teh greek sewerage system cant handle tissues being flushed down and soon bungs up if you do…..

  3. Really interested to read this. We were in Lindos in September 2010 and really liked the place. I think I’ve even got the same photographs! I visited the Acropolis late one Sunday afternoon and had the place practically to myself. I look forward to the next instalment!

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